Jemaa-el-Fna, comes to life after dark and is riot of enticing color, noise and smells, with dancers, fire-eaters, acrobats, snake charmers and fortune-tellers. Rows of trestle tables are set up every evening to serve up barbecued kebabs, boiled snails, mouthwatering tajines and an array of other more-or-less appetizing foods. Around this vast open space stretch the shadowy alleyways of the souks; a vast marketplace selling herbs and potions, carpets and candles, jewelry, spices, meat and ...