Cannes & Antibes

Cannes is one of the most legendary of Riviera towns, famous for its May film festival. But surprisingly, the main shopping area and old section are down-to-earth, with normal prices and friendly atmosphere. It's an easy four-block walk from the train station to the shore where you can have a peek at the high life exemplified by extraordinary hotel palaces lining the grand Boulevard de la Croisette. The grande dame is the Carlton, a magnificent century-old structure. Forget about staying here during the film fest; you've got to be a Hollywood player or big-shot to get a room. In the off-season, you might find an affordable room here, where a baroque dining salon dates to 1911, with its original decor intact. The Majestic is another fabled hotel. Peek at its Egyptian-themed lounges, relax and have a snack at the cafe. The Cannes Festival Hall is a monster structure at the end of the promenade. Its sidewalk is dimpled with many impressions from the big stars, who flock here during the festival to promote their latest flicks. Old Town: On the other side of the Festival Hall, you will reach the Old Town of Cannes, easily missed by those hesitant to walk uphill, but don't be dissuaded. Called "le Suquet," this simple neighborhood is a welcome counterpoint to the ostentatious display of wealth you've just seen. Stroll through a pedestrian zone that gently rises via staircases and Rue Saint-Antoine to the top of the small hill, providing a great view of the marina and Festival Hall. A few pleasant squares here feature restaurants, ice cream shops and creperies. A central lane, Rue Meynadier, is for pedestrians only and runs about a mile toward the train station, where you'll continue the day's journey. Antibes: Trains whisk you in 15 minutes to beautiful coastal Antibes, which can be explored in a few hours, leaving time to return to Nice for dinner. Antibes was once a fortified village and has an ancient fort in the harbor with its original wall running along the shore. Walk two blocks to the marina and continue to a gate in the city wall leading into Old Town. To the right inside the gate is a lively bar-lined street called Boulevard d'Aquillon, but don't turn yet. Instead, veer left to Rue Aubernon which leads to Cours Massena, the main food market. Walk a few blocks farther to explore a peaceful residential neighborhood. A large Picasso Museum in the nearby Grimaldi Palace is where the artist had a studio that is now incorporated into the museum. Antibes was home to several 20th century artists. Picasso lived here in 1946 and spent most of his later life elsewhere in Provence. He donated 22 of his paintings to the museum, which also has works by other important modern artists. Next, find your way to Rue des Revennes, which becomes Rue James Close, a charming shopping lane lined with boutiques and restaurants so cute that you might want to stay to sample such local grinds as "socca," comparable to a thick crust. These few blocks are some of the best in the Riviera. Rue James Close leads to the main pedestrian shopping street, Rue de la Republique. It connects Place National to Place General de Gaulle, where you can turn right and walk five blocks along Avenue Robert Soleau back to the train station, and Nice for the evening.

Blip | January 27, 2008

Tags:. .comparable. .cafe. .ancient. .lounges. .cream