POLAND: Handmade doyleys have given way to a new g-string trend in Southern Poland.

The small, isolated towns of Koniakow and Istebna situated in the Beskidy Mountains of southern Poland are known for little else than their doyley production. The tradition of doyley-making has been passed down from generation to generation over the past 200 years. "The laces originate from bridal bonnets. It used to be a custom for a bride to crochet her own bridal bonnet. During the wedding the bonnet was put on her head as a sign of being a matron, from that point on she is obliged to wear it for the rest of her married life. Over the last 200 years the tradition developed and weavers started producing doyleys. Now we crochet whatever is needed, blouses, collars, additional lace fixtures, even underwear, anything we are asked to weave," said lace maker, Zuzanna Gwarek. After the Second World War the women of Koniakow persuaded the communist authorities to provide the towns with electricity in order to maximize the turnover and production of doyley garments. Over the years various Popes and dignitaries from around the world have received doyleys and lace products from the region as diplomatic gifts. It is unlikely, however that Pope Benedict XVI will receive the latest craze to hit Istebna high street. The towns' women recently stirred up emotions when they started to use traditional crocheting techniques to make lingerie. Even a local priest had to step in to prevent a full blown riot in the Catholic region. However, it seems the women have decided its time to modernise and embrace the controversial transition from humble doyleys to skimpy thongs. "It's not uncommon for husbands to order such underwear for their wives for the wedding anniversaries, be it their fifth, tenth or twenty fifth anniversaries. Occasionally they will request a personalised pattern to be included in the design, for example a heart or cherry," said Malgorzata Stanaszek, who runs the internet store with lingerie from Koniakow and Istebna. Stanaszek does not see anything obscene in using traditional techniques to make lingerie. The women produce lingerie in a variety of colours and styles, but it can be hard to find time for mass production of the lacework. "There are lots of women who can't work because they have to raise their children, besides this, there is farm work to be done and dinner to prepare. Once these chores are done I have time to weave several rings of lace flowers together. Then I'm done and the lingerie is ready." Even, Queen Elizabeth II of England has heard of the famed southern Polish doyley, having commissioned Maria Gwarek of Koniakow to design a sumptuous throw for 'The Grand Couch' of Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately Mrs. Gwarek passed away before she had completed her job and until this day it remains unfinished and exhibited in the Koniakow's museum.

ITN Source | October 19, 2006

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