"Parma Ham" must come from Parma, but the "Nürnberger Rostbratwurst" need not come from Nuremberg. EU protections for regional products can seem arbitrary, with three levels of designation: Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and Protected Designation Origin (PDO). This third and strongest protection has been awarded to Allgäuer Bergkäse, a handmade cheese made from the milk of cows grazed on mountain pastures in southwest Germany's Allgäu region. Local cheesemakers are delighted their traditional trade is now protected from big industrial rivals. And the regional economy is benefiting too. Carmen Meyer reports.